Each boot/shoe maker has his/her own “secret” when it comes to shaping the last.  To review here are a few terms that I will be discussing in this article on my latest Version 4 lasting technique.

Last - this is the foot form used to build a boot or shoe around.

Metatarsal Heads - this is approximately around the inner/outer protrusion on the sides of the foot where your toes bend.

Toe box - this part of the boot runs from the Metatarsal Heads forward to the tips of the toes.

Calcaneus - This is basically your heel bone.

Heel pocket - this part of the boot encapsulates the Calcaneus.

Instep - right smack dab in the middle of your foot if you’re looking at it lengthwise.

Vamp - this is generally the front section of the boot.  It includes the toe box and most of the instep.

Quarters - this is generally the back (ankle) section of the boot.  It does not include the heel pocket, but does include the ankles, part of the instep and the cuff (or topline.)

Topline - this refers to the “line” that is formed if you look at the boot from the side in 2-dimensions.  When talking about the topline of the cuff it’s the very top of the cuff.  This can also refer to the opening where the laces and straps go.

As we explore the last further - additional terms will be explained before they are used.

Fresh Out of the Cast

Plaster isn’t the easiest stuff in the world to work with.  I attended a cowboy boot making seminar last year and the speaker hated the stuff.  Cowboy boots are a little more involved and take many more hours to make compared to speed skates, but the technique and process isn’t all that different.  Where things differ is in how the last is sanded.  A cowboy boot needs to be larger than the foot in the instep area, otherwise you will not be able to put it on or take it off.  If the same rules were applied to a speed skating boot, the results would be disasterous.

There are many types of plaster that you can use to make a custom last, but plain old Plaster of Paris from the hardware or art supply store will work just fine.  The instructions on the box are pretty good, but there are a few things that will make your life easier when pouring the lasts.

• Use latex gloves - trust me on this one.  It makes clean up and mixing easier.
• Do not stir the plaster mixture until ALL the powder has been added to the water.
• On that note, always add plaster powder to water, never the other way around.
• Grab the powder with your gloved hand, then slowly sprinkle it into the water.
• Don’t use a plastic wash pail.  Instead use a mixing bowl.  They’re easier to clean and easier to use.
• If you must stir the plaster mixture, do it slowly and use a ladle with holes in it.
• Keep one small empty container next to the mold when pouring.
• Keep one medium sized container filled with fresh water, next to the mold when pouring.
• Use a wooden spoon to tap the sides of the cast during and after pouring to promote air bubbles to the top.
• Don’t walk away after pouring!  The levels WILL go down as it cures, keep any extra left over plaster mix in the small empty container - while washing/cleaning your mix bowl.

Even after a near perfect pour - there could still be imperfections, holes and cracks to fill.  To minimize the uneven curing of the plaster (which could further cause voids inside the last) ensure the inside of the cast is coated in Petroleum Jelly, PAM spray or some other release medium.  When liquid plaster comes into contact with cured plaster, it cures almost instantly.  The addition of the release barrier will prevent many of the sub surface issues that can arise.

Material Removal

The first thing that I do is remove the imperfections.  Resist the temptation to start working with the wet last.  If you air dry the last - it could take several weeks before it’s dry enough to work on.  Where I live, I get enough sunshine in the summer to completely dry the lasts in about a week.  They get about 2 to 3 hours per day and are rotated to ensure even drying.  If by the end of the week they are still not completely dry - they go in the oven.

Once dry - sandpaper and other artist carving tools will easily remove material.  The first step is to remove all the obvious imperfections.  We want to soften up the high points only.  I don’t touch the ankle bones!

At this first sanding - I will shape the last as close to the skater’s foot as possible.  Even the toe detail is retained.

Adding Plaster

Next, I fill in the holes and imperfections.  There may be voids and other items on the last that need to be repaired.  This is the time to do it.

Initial Shaping

When performing the initial shaping - the goal is to remove areas that represent skin and fatty tissue.  If we did nothing, the boot would be too loose.  Since I tape the instep, I start sanding at the heel.  I remove around the sides and bottoms, then I take a few more mm’s away from the instep, then finally I narrow the toe box by 3 to 4 mm.

After the sanding, I add material:

1. Around the Achilles tendon - just at the top of the Calcaneous.  I add a little to each side.  Heel lock is impossible - there will always be **some** movement as the foot pushes.  If we attempt to lock in the heel - there can be blisters in this location.  A small addition of plaster in this are can relieve this issue.
2. Front and back of the ankles - when the foot moves through it’s range of motion, the ankle bone can come forward slightly or move back slightly.  A little bit of plaster can be added here to compensate.
3. Sides - the sides of the foot are slightly adjusted.  Low points are brought up and high points brought down (only a few mm.)  It would be a good idea to photograph the client’s foot and take note of any bone structures.  Be careful not to sand off any bones!

Final Sanding and Last height

I’ve measured several boot designs and they average from about 3 to 5 cm in height, above the inside (medial) ankle protrusion (Malleoulus.)   I made my last long track boot about 2.8 cm.  While this felt okay on the ice, I think that it would be a bit on the low side for the rigors of inline racing.  Height is a bit of a personal choice, therefore I usually leave this up to the skater.  If they don’t know - I’ll typically use 3.5 cm.

I use an autobody filler file to grind the height of the last down to the boot height.  I also create the topline and cuff shape at this time.  It’s easier to make these decisions now, rather than wait until later.  Measuring is messy so if you set the height and shape now - you won’t even have to think about it.  Trust me on this - it’s very easy to screw up boot heights later in the process.

I give the entire last a once-over using steel wool or emery cloth, then I drill a hole in the top to allow for mounting.

And that’s it!  This is my current process and forumla for making and tuning my lasts.  In combination with this process, I also use a fitting shell to confirm the final shape prior to making the boot.  This process has only been tested on my foot so I can’t say that it won’t change.  By the end of this season though, I’ll have done this ten times with ten different skaters.  I’ll post a followup to this discussion with results sometime later in 2008.

Thanks for reading.

July - Week 1 and 2 Wrap Up

Well, it’s the middle of week 2 in July and I’m now well off my targets.  The good news is that batch 1 fitting is almost done.  I’ve modified all the plaster lasts based on the feedback from each of the skaters that have been fit so far.

Batch 1:  [GN, PM, AH, JLW, TS] - only one fitting left to do.  I’ve started cutting the liners for these boots.  There has been a design change as well.  I’m no longer going to be using a leather liner.  Instead the liner is being constructed out of 1.5mm PERFORATED EVAlite.  This has several advantages and one disadvantage over pigskin. 

1. First, it speeds up the process - it will save me at least a week. 
2. It forms very nicely to the contours of the foot - it’s more comfortable. 
3. It’s easier to clean - means less smell for barefoot skaters
4. No leather liner means that the boot will be lighter.

The  disadvantage is that it doesn’t breathe as well as leather.  The EVA that I will be using is perforated with a bunch of little holes, so this should improve it’s breathability.  Most of a typical speed skating boot isn’t breathable anyway, so I don’t think this will turn out to be a problem.

Batch 2:  [EM, CC, SH, JS, SF] - sorry guys/girls, your boots are still in the “lasting” phase.  That means they are being poured, dried and/or sanded.  None of them are complete yet.  I estimate a minimum of at least a week or more of sanding still required.  I’ll keep you posted.

One of my favorite boot makers is City Run Racing from Korea.  I’ve been following them for the past year or so and have noticed a real refinement in their designs.  Although I have never actually tried on a pair, their esthetics and finishing are spectacular.  From their brilliant colour choices, flawless stitching and practical cuff designs (I’m in love with the cuff because it’s clearly designed to take the pressure off your fibula) this company smells of quality and refinement.

Their latest release called the Vulcan, is elegantly designed and constructed.  Have a look… these are certain to have an influence on this side of the shore.

For more images of the Vulcan see [City Run Racing].

Ps. If you’re looking for some design ideas… this is a suggestion, but forget about the graphics.  Take a look at the Vulcan’s older cuff design - which is also very slick.

Had a few days off work so I spent them working in the garage.  Still a  ways to go, but now I have something to show for all my efforts.

These are a sample of the fitting shells I spent the weekend working on. An interesting thing happened to the first one. I forgot about regulating temperatures and such, so I placed the first shell into the oven at about 200-something degrees f. Well, when I came back 30 minutes later, the resin had turned into a bubbly, foamy mess! It didn’t affect the purpose of the fitting shell, but a good reminder that I need to keep the temps down!

The other shells cured with no issues.

It’s the second week of June and so far - I’ve met my targets.  I have to admit though, I am setting them as I go along. This week has been a busy one, but I got a break when practice was rained out. Here’s a summary of what’s been completed for Batch 1:

• lasts are complete
• insoles and ankle pad thermoforming are complete
• ankle pad shaping and feathering is complete

Todo for Week 3:

• cutting of fiberglass for fitting shells (80% complete, I ran out of fiberglass cloth.)
• purchase more supplies (cloth and resin)
• wrap the insole/padding together onto the last with Saran Wrap (20% complete)
• lay up the fitting shells

For the Batch 2 group, I ran out of plaster so I replenished my supply on Friday.  Two of the four remaining pairs have been poured and they are mostly dry.  Two more left to pour, which will be done also in week 3.

What is a fitting shell?

A fitting shell is a concept I decided to incorporate into my skate boot making process.  I have a book on making mens shoes written by Laszlo Vass & Magda Molnar called Handmade Shoes for Men.  When working with high profile clients, Vass suggests that the shoe maker create a “sample” or proof of concept to ensure the design of the last, creates a shoe that will perfectly fit the client.  Based on that advice, I’ve designed what I call a fitting shell.  It basically uses the padding, insole and about 4 or 5 layers of fiberglass to mimic the shape and fit of a real boot.  It’s cut as high as the actual boot and also higher than the final carbon fiber shell.

The fitting shell adds about 2 to 3 weeks of additional effort into the making of a boot, but as a boot maker, you can be certain that the work you’ve put into the shaping and sanding of the last is going to fit the client.  As a client - you can rest assured that the boot maker is creating a work of art that will fit exactly as ordered.  During the fitting appointment, the skater can provide feedback on items like:

• feels too tight or too loose
• toes too cramped or loose
• heels too tight or loose
• whether there are pressure points and where

You can use tape to secure the shell to the client’s foot then have him or her go through a range of motions similar to one complete skating stride.  With this additional information you can then adjust the last to fix any flaws before actually making the final (expensive) boot.